Mark Heyward

Crazy Little Heaven: An Indonesian Journey

Crazy Little Heaven: An Indonesian Journey

The story of that remarkable expedition — a true travel adventure — coalesces with the author’s longer journey into the complex heart of Indonesia. It is a journey that spans two decades, that takes the reader from a treasured childhood in Tasmania to a new life in the world’s most
populous Muslim nation. Along the way…

The School on The Hill

The School on The Hill

Before the road to the hill was built by the Studio and partners it was a two-hour walk up from the main road to the village. The daily trek is still a part of life for the hill people, though now shortened to an hour or so for those who can afford to catch a mini-bus. The footpath which winds its way up the hill among groves…

Lebaran in Yogya (3)

Lebaran in Yogya (3)

After a little more encouragement, he clambered across the gongs and, with a wink and a wry smile, found a space beside one of the large drums. Rubbing his hands a little to prepare he began to tap the taught skins, arms stretched, one hand at either end. The music gathered…

Lebaran in Yogya (2)

Lebaran in Yogya (2)

Idul Fitri. Morning dawned bright and clear. The village stirred and the family was up as usual with the sunrise. The yard was swept clean, the house tidied, water was drawn from the well, a small cooking fire tended in the lean-to kitchen at the rear of the home, everyone bathed…

Lebaran in Yogya (1)

Lebaran in Yogya (1)

I arrived with my family in Yogyakarta for the annual pilgrimage on the last day of the fasting month – my wife, Sopan, and two scruffy little boys: Rory and Harry. Arrival in Yogya is always a return to the familiar. The soft, round Yogya accents register as soon as…

In Love With the Pinisi

In Love With the Pinisi

I had already fallen in love with the pinisi when first I laid eyes on her on the coast of East Kalimantan on the other side of this wide, green island. In fact as a child I was already in love with the idea of the pinisi, with tall ships. I was in love with the sea, and…

Orangutan Encounters (1): East Kalimantan

Orangutan Encounters (1): East Kalimantan

Hornbills flew overhead, their great wings thumping the moist air. I once saw a sun-bird the size of a fingernail and wood-eating bees the size of a thumb. A three metre monitor lizard scampered through the school yard and huge saltwater crocodiles lurked in the mangroves…